A 440km hike along the Hume and Hovell Walking Track from Yass to Albury which follows the route of explorers Hamilton Hume and William Hovell on their expedition to Port Phillip in 1824.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 019 - The Great Aussie H/P to Albury

 

Day:019
Date:

Saturday, 25 May 2013 

Start:

The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Finish:

Hovell Tree, Albury

Daily Kilometres:

48.6

Total Kilometres:

437.6

Weather:

Very cold and occasionally foggy at first then mild and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:

Motel in Albury

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Pizza and ice-cream 

Aches:

Very tired feet

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

It was very cold in my cabin during the night and I woke a few times wishing I was tucked up in my tent in my sleeping bag.  Determined to try and reach the trail finish at the Hovell Tree, 49km away in Albury, in daylight, I left the cabin in the pre-dawn at 6:30am and set out at a good pace with light provided by a fabulous moonset across Lake Hume.

The early trail passed through the Ten Chain Stock Reserve, presumably part of the national system of stock routes in rural Australia.  As usual, the early walking hours seemed the best.  There was fog drifting in some of the nearby valleys and frost in some of the pastures, as the sun rose in clear skies and cold temperatures.  On the radio, they said the temperature in Albury was 0°C and it felt like it.  But as the morning wore on it became warmer and I gradually removed layers to end up in the usual shorts and T-shirt.

After the Stock Route, the balance of the morning was spent roadwalking, some of it in thick fog, through the rural outskirts of Albury.  It was easy to make good time on the roads and I passed lots of interesting farmlets and some nice views, but it is hard on the feet.  By the time I reached the suburb of Thurgoona in early afternoon, where the trail began following footpaths and bike trails, I was just plodding along, hanging out for the next break.  The trail-marking was hard to follow in places, and I began to rely on the maps and GPS to confirm I was going the right way.  Suburban walking doesn't have a lot to recommend it, and I was looking forward to the climb of East Hill in Albury for a change of terrain and pace.  All day, I had tried to cover at least 10km between breaks and to keep the breaks short and was happy to see I was on schedule as I approached East Hill and the final 10km.

The climb up the Hill on the foot trail was very welcome to my road-pummelled feet, and at the top I was rewarded by some excellent views into Victoria, along the Murray River, and way back from where I had hiked.  After a walk along the ridge of East Hill I made a painful descent into central Albury and the final sole-destroying and soul-destroying couple of kilometres across the town.  The sun was setting and it was a race to get to the Hovell Tree in daylight.  I made it at 5:25pm in just enough light to take a few photographs, and then sat on a park bench for 15 minutes or so to recover and ponder on my journey, as night fell and the air cooled.

The trail had matched my expectations with its great mix of rural and mountain Australian scenery, but I was surprised not to have met a single hiker the whole way, travelling in either direction.  Maybe it's the distance from the Australian population centres, but perhaps it just isn't well enough known.  It's a pity, because it's a great slice of Australia.  The camping facilities and guidebooks were excellent and I look forward to running some of the trail in the Hume & Hovell 100km in October.  I will be back.

I finally roused myself from the park bench and hobbled the half kilometre to my motel.  After a shower, I wandered downtown and bought some dinner to bring back to the motel, and am looking forward to stretching out in my window seat on the train tomorrow and looking at the mountains I have just traversed in the distance to the east.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 018 - Samuel Bollard C/S to The Great Aussie H/P

 

Day:018
Date:

Friday, 24 May 2013

Start:

Samuel Bollard Campsite

Finish:

The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Daily Kilometres:

26.4

Total Kilometres:

389.0

Weather:

Cold early, then sunny and mild.

Accommodation:

Cabin at The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, bacon and cheese rissoles and baked beans, and fruit and jelly 

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I got up just before 6:30am to clear skies and an hour later the sun rose to warm up slightly what was another very cold morning.  I was on my way by 8:30am, still wearing a jacket for warmth, along some more beautiful sun-dappled track through a very dry eucalypt forest.  No sign of the camp neighbours before I left.

The trail notes said this this section was "hard" and it was definitely less-travelled than some other parts but, apart from a few short sharp climbs, the going wasn't too bad for the first few hours.  I stopped at one of the rare log books on the trail for my first break and found an entry from friends Darrel, Andrew and Terry, who had run the trail in just five days, three years ago.  I photographed their entry and sent it by SMS to Darrel, knowing that it would evoke some memories for him.

After the break, the trail left this section of Woomargama National Park and entered some private pine plantation and grazing land.  As I walked, I tuned into an interview on the ABC with Cheryl Strayed (in Sydney for the Writers Festival) about her book "Wild" describing her hike along part of the Pacific Crest Trail in the US and how it had got her life back on track after the death of her mother.  I had read and enjoyed the book, which I think did a very good job of describing the miseries and joys of solo long-distance hiking.  Recommended.  It was also relevant because the PCT has been on my list for some time and there's a good chance I will hike the southern half (Californian section) next year.

Anyway, while I listened to the radio, my trail gradually emerged from forest onto very hilly grazing land, giving sweeping views, and it became a bit harder to find the trail markers.  At one point I thought I was on track, but wasn't, and had to retrace my steps and then use the map, topography and GPS to work out where the trail should be going.  After travelling cross-country for about a kilometre, I left a small pocket of forest to spy, in the distance, a trail marker and after that I didn't have any more problems.  That is, apart from the up and down route following fence lines across hilly open grazing lands, negotiating many stiles, and all beneath a strong sun.  It was quite tiring and I began to regret my decision not to carry any water, which has been fine for most days of the hike, but not today.

Finally, after a last couple of stiles the trail reached the Bowna-Wymah Road and I sat on the bottom step of the last stile and had a late lunch at 1:45pm.  It was positively warm in the sun and the flies were plentiful, encouraging me not to wait for too long before beginning the last leg of the day, 7.5km along the road to The Great Aussie Holiday Park where I had booked a cabin for the night.  Road-walking is hard on the feet, but a lot faster and the backroad pretty rural scenery helped the time quickly pass.  I reached the very picturesque and manicured Holiday Park, on the shore of Lake Hume, at 3:30pm and checked in and bought an ice-cream and a very welcome large Diet Coke.  My cabin is large and clean and after a shower and drying my tent outside in the late afternoon sun, I purchased a frozen dinner back at the camp store, and uploaded my diary entries for the last three days before cooking dinner.  The battery on my laptop had lasted well, but the battery on the iPhone I use to upload to the internet on the trail had pretty much run out.

I was originally planning to take two days to hike from here to the finishing point in Albury, but the thought of camping in a vehicle-accessible campsite on the outskirts of a small city on a Saturday night is not particularly inviting.  Therefore I have decided to pack two days into one and make an early start tomorrow for the final 49km.  I've booked a motel room in Albury near the finish point for tomorrow night and a train seat from Albury to Sydney on Sunday morning, so I'm fully committed to a big day.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 017 - Tin Mines C/S to Samuel Bollard C/S

 

Day:017
Date:

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Start:

Tin Mines Campsite

Finish:

Samuel Bollard Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

20.6

Total Kilometres:

362.6

Weather:

Cold at first, but mild and mostly sunny all day.

Accommodation:

Camping at Samuel Bollard Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Beef Teriyaki and chocolate 

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

There were only a few light showers overnight and I got up in the 6:30am pre-dawn gloom to mostly clear skies.  Overhead I could hear the whisper of a high-flying jet, most likely on the Sydney-Melbourne route and imagined the bleary-eyed occupants, having woken to a 4:00am alarm for a 4:30am car to the airport and a 6am flight.  A few of the occupants might be looking out of the window at the forests and mountains below, as I have done on many commuter flights in various parts of the world, wondering who's down there and what are they doing?  I know where I would rather be.

Knowing that I had another easy day, I took my time breakfasting and packing up, and started walking around 9am.  The guide-book warned that the next 8km was mostly uphill, but it was a very gradual climb, not onerous at all, along the beautiful sun-dappled track through the eucalypt forest.  After an hour, the sun was warm enough to strip down to my T-shirt and I felt fortunate to have missed most of the rain that had passed through NSW and was now apparently falling on Sydney and the Central Coast.

Around 11am I reached Norths Lookout, a broad rocky outcrop that gave fantastic views in a 180° arc from the NE through NW to SW and I stopped for a short while to enjoy the scene.  I then continued on for another half hour to the edge of the Woomargama National Park and had lunch in the sun in a broad clearing.  Very pleasant.  From there, the trail passed through a pine plantation and, at one point, I briefly passed through a "No Entry" area where I could hear ongoing logging operations, but had no problems.

After the pine plantation the trail again entered eucalypt forest.  I was making good time and it looked like another very early finish.  With just a few minutes to go, I reached a track junction where I needed to turn off to get to the campsite when I heard a vehicle approaching.  It stopped and turned out to be Warwick, the trail coordinator, who had some business in the area and guessed I might be nearby.  It was nice to see him again and we chatted for quite a long time about the Track and the ultra-distance trail race which is now held on a section of it each year.  After saying our goodbyes I hiked the last half kilometre to the campsite which was on a lightly forested knoll that would get the sun late and early.

As I set up camp, an elderly couple (well, older than me!) driving a 4WD with a camper trailer arrived.  I was glad I hadn't arrived any later because I suspect they would have set up near the shelter which I had claimed as my own.  Instead, they set up 50 metres away and were quite sociable, and we chatted for a while about the Hume & Hovell expedition.

After setting up camp and washing, I updated my diary before another early dinner and night.  I am booked into a cabin tomorrow night but, despite being another shortish day, there will be some tough trail to negotiate en route.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 016 - Lankeys Creek C?S to Tin Mines C/S

 

Day:016
Date:

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Start:

Lankeys Creek Campsite

Finish:

Tin Mines Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

21.3

Total Kilometres:

342.0 

Weather:

Cold and foggy early, and cool and overcast later.

Accommodation:

Camping at Tin Mines Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Chicken Tikka Masala and chocolate

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I was expecting it to start raining overnight, but there were only a couple of brief showers.  However, there was a fog in the valley where I was camped and everything was damp.....and it was also cold.  I got up at 6:30am and was hiking by soon after 8:30am, anticipating an easier and shorter day's hiking.

An early bonus was finding that the official route of the Hume & Hovell Track had changed, presumably because an owner had granted permission, to take a track up through a private pine plantation which cut out a couple of kilometres, including a road section.  It was cold but the steady climb through the plantation for 30 minutes soon warmed me up.  At the top of the climb, the trail joined the old H&H route and followed a broad forested ridge to the west.  After a short while it entered the Woomargama National Park to follow the Tin Mines Track and the forest changed to a grassy eucalypt forest that was very easy on the eye in the overcast conditions.  All muted shades of green, grey and brown with the occasional white snow gum standing out.  It was very quiet except for the occasional wallaby or disturbed flock black or white cockatoos.

Further on as the track climbed higher to round a couple of knolls, there were partially obscured views across the rural land to the west and mountains to the east.  I was making good time and, after a short lunch stop, completed the last section of the day's hike with a gradual descent to the Tin Mines Flats and my campsite which I reached at 2:15pm.  The next campsite is another 20km further on, so continuing was not really an option.  Firstly, water is scarce in Woomargama NP on my route and, secondly, the official campsites have some shelter and rain is still forecast.

I set up camp, washed and dried out the gear that was still damp and settled into a relaxing afternoon including a walk around the Flats and some reading.  I had an early dinner and went to bed early to have a read.  Rain is still expected tonight, but I'm starting to think that maybe it has somehow missed me.  However, there is a "sheep weather alert" out for this region so maybe there is weather misery to come.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 015 - Mundaroo C/S to Lankeys Creek C/S

 

Day:015
Date:

Tuesday, 21 May 2013

Start:

Munderoo Campsite

Finish:

Lankeys Creek Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

26.7

Total Kilometres:

320.7

Weather:

Cool in the morning, mostly sunny and mild later

Accommodation:

Camping at Lankeys Creek Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Beef Curry and chocolate

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I had planned to sleep in until 7am, but was awake at 6:30am and got up.  The campsite was in a shallow valley where there had been rain overnight and a heavy dew and it didn't look like the sun was going to reach it for a while, so I sort of dawdled over breakfast and packing up but finally gave up on the sun and packed and left with a wet tent at 9am.

My pack now had five days of food in it so was a lot heavier than yesterday, but it was a beautiful morning for walking along the foot trail through the sun-dappled forest in the cool morning air.  The morning's walking continued like this, passing through eucalypt and pine forest on a mix of forest roads and foot-trails following shallow valleys and crossing broad clearings.  It was just magic and I forgot about the increased pack weight.  Towards noon the trail climbed higher and higher to reach a broad mountain shoulder where I had mobile phone coverage so I took an hour off in the sun to post my diary to the web and dry out my tent and parts of my sleeping bag after last night's rain and dew.  It would have been easy to stay longer, but I still had a fair way to go.

The next few hours were also exceptional walking.  For a while the track followed a narrow forested ridge with occasional spectacular views to the south, east and north.  Then there was a gradual but exhilarating descent across the face of a steep open grassy mountain where I had continuous views in multiple directions.  Far below was a road along which passed a number of large logging trucks going to and from the forests somewhere and straining loudly up the hills.  Finally the track descended to the valley floor and crossed private farmland to a creek where I looked in vain for the usual snazzy Hume & Hovell Track suspension bridge and finally manouvred my way across a series of rocks balancing with the aid of my trekking poles and thankful for my high profile Goretex boots.

There followed more pastureland walking which was occasionally difficult to navigate because the cows seemed to have enjoyed knocking over the little white posts (possibly good for scratching).  Yesterday's long walk together with today's heavy pack began catching up with me around 3pm and I was looking forward to reaching the campsite.  This fatigue probably coloured my view of some of the last kilometres which were pretty much cross-country following Lankeys Creek upstream through cow pasture.  The stream meandered around, it was sometimes difficult to negotiate steep banks, and the setting sun was directly into my eyes making it diffcult to see where I was going.  I made slow progress and it was 4:50pm before the trail crossed the creek and joined the road which was on the other side.  After another 3km I reached the Lankeys Creek Campsite, partly damaged by a recent flood, in rapidly diminishing light.

Adjacent to the Campsite is a private property with a number of old rail carriages being used as accommodation.  This would be the Lankeys Creek Bunkhouse which, by reputation, has been a welcome stopover for previous H&H hikers.  However, I hadn't called ahead and, now that it was dark, I couldn't be bothered making contact and investigating the possibility of unbooked accommodation.  At the end of another long day, I just wanted to set up camp, eat and go to bed, so that's what I did on what was becoming a very cold night with a sharp breeze.  After doing my diary, I headed gratefully for bed at 8:30pm.  Quite a lot of rain is forecast for the next two days.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 014 - Henry Angel T/H to Mundaroo C/S

 

Day:014
Date:

Monday, 20 May 2013

Start:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Finish:

Munderoo Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

35.6 (plus 9 from Tumbarumba to Henry Angel Trackhead)

Total Kilometres:

294.0

Weather:

Cool and mostly overcast with occasional light showers all day

Accommodation:

Camping at Munderoo Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Cereal, toast and muffin
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Corn chips, soup, Beef Teriyaki, fruit and rice-cream 

Aches:

 None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I peered out the motel window when I woke to see it raining lightly.  Curses.  However, by the time I left at 7:15am it had stopped but was still threatening.  I started walking out of town along the Tooma Road, optimistic that some early morning traveller would pick me up.  An hour later, five kilometres out of town and still on foot, I gave up and crossed to walk against the traffic and resigned myself to a long day on foot.  I wanted to reach Munderoo Campsite where I had secreted a food drum with enough supplies to see me through to Albury and the end of the trip.  It was already going to be a long day, without the unplanned nine kilometre warm-up.  I'll admit I could have tried to pressure someone, such as the motel owner, to give me a lift, but I prefer to be independent.....and suffer the consequences.

I finally reached the Hume & Hovell Track at Henry Angel Trackhead, the point where I had left the trail on Saturday, at 9am and stopped for a 10 minute break before "starting" my day's hiking.  It was raining very lightly, but not really enough to get me wet.  The trail picked up where it had left off, following Burra Creek downstream through open pasture and various goldmining sites dating back to 1876.  The miners had done quite a lot of work to drain what was a swamp and increase the flow rate of Burra Creek for sluicing by straightening it through blasting channels and tunnels through rock.  Very impressive work and still lots of evidence by the trail.

After an hour, I dropped my pack at a trail intersection and quickly climbed up a side trail to Big Hill Lookout on the side of the hill from which Hume & Hovell had first seen the Australian Alps.  Sadly for me, the day wasn't so clear with lots of low-hanging cloud obscuring the distant mountains, but the nearer views were clear and spectacular.  It was worth the detour.  I walked back to my pack and then the trail left the farmland behind and descended through forest to a shaky suspension bridge across Tumbarumba Creek.  Then began a long and steady climb into Bogandyera Nature Reserve that certainly slowed my pace, but wasn't too tough.  Finally the trail reached and followed a ridge which gave glimpses through the trees into the Tumbarumba valley below.

It was pleasant forest walking for an hour or so before a steady descent through the forest and into the next rural valley and Mannus Lake.  The latter seemed to be a bit of a misnomer as it wasn't much more than a large stream, but I could see the area which would be covered by water in better seasons.  The trail followed Mannus Creek through pretty pasture land offering some nice rural views.  However, the peaceful scene was somewhat disturbed by irregular air-gun shots from a distant orchard, presumably designed to scare off predatory birds.  The trail then followed a road bordering a pine plantation as it headed north and my feet began reminding me that they had gone far enough for one day.  I had done about 31km, with about 14km to go, and it was past the time I would normally have stopped on this trip.  I tried to remember other days on other hikes when I had ended up doing big kilometres and that helped a bit as I tried to mentally string together milestones on those hikes and other details.  Some of those days were definitely tougher than today.

I had a break at Mannus Campsite adjacent to a road that would have taken me back to Tumbarumba, then set off for my last 12km.  After crossing the road the trail went through a pine plantation and then back to pasture land where huge mobs of kangaroos were grazing.  Then began a long steady climb into Mundaroo State Forest, mainly pine plantation, as the sun began setting to my right.  For a while the sky was clear and brilliant stars and a half moon emerged to offer some light.  I had my last break at 5:30pm and donned my headlamp as it soon became too dark to tread carefully, though there was enough light to see the forest and farmland I passed.  The last kilometre or two was steeply downhill on a slippery fire-trail and was quite slow.  I was well and truly ready for Munderoo Campsite when I arrived at 7pm and 15 minutes later I had retrieved my food drum and began getting organised to camp and reorganise supplies for the next six days.  My feet were very tired and I felt like I could have crawled straight into my sleeping bag once the tent was set up, but knew I hadn't eaten or drunk much during the day and forced myself to eat a meal and update my diary before heading for bed about 10:45pm.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 013 - Henry Angel T/H

 

Day:013
Date:

Sunday, 19 May 2013

Start:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Finish:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Daily Kilometres:0
Total Kilometres:

258.4

Weather:

Cold and partly sunny in the morning and cool and overcast in the afternoon.

Accommodation:

Motel in Tumbarumba

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Cereal and toast
Lunch:  Roast of the Day (Pork) and vanilla slice
Dinner:  Spring rolls, Chinese Hot Pot and apple slice.

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:

na

Journal:

I spent a lazy day in Tumbarumba, sleeping in, watching the Sunday morning news programs, catching up on email, and washing and repacking.

It will be a long day's hiking tomorrow so I'm hoping to be on the trail early, but haven't managed to contact the local school bus service to line up a lift.  I think I'll just go and stand on the road out of town around 7am and hope someone picks me up.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 012 - Paddy's River Dam C/S to Henry Angel T/H

 

Day:012
Date:

Saturday, 18 May 2013

Start:

Paddy's River Dam Campsite

Finish:

Henry Angel Trackhead

Daily Kilometres:

29.0

Total Kilometres:

258.4

Weather:

Partly cloudy all day.  Cold in the mornng and cool later.

Accommodation:

Motel in Tumbarumba

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Pizza and ice-cream 

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I slept well on a very cold night and forced myself to get up in the freezing pre-dawn gloom at 6:30am, knowing that I had a big day ahead.  Because the morning's are so cold, I usually put back on pretty much all of the clothes I was wearing the night before while I go about packing up the tent and having breakfast.  Then, the last thing I do before I start hiking is put on yesterday's hiking gear and pack away the extra clothing.  It adds time, but makes life more bearable.  While I packed up, dawn broke and the hues of Paddy's River Dam seemed to change every few minutes.  It was magically still, with the occasional kookaburra call and something, maybe a fish, disturbing the lake's surface now and then to create a small circular ripple.  I was told later it was a great trout fishing spot.

Soon after 8:30am I began hiking through the tussocky alpine forest on a superb morning.  The going on the well-defined single-track was easy, the scenery magic and I anticipated a lovely day.  I did finally see three or four brumbies when we all startled each other around this time, but they quickly galloped away through the trees and over a ridge.  It continued like this for the first hour and a half and I became confident that I would reach the Henry Angel Trackhead in good time to hitch a lift into Tumbarumba and have an early mark.

After a short break, the track began to follow an old water sluice that had once carried water from Paddy's River Dam to Tumbarumba to generate hydroelectricity for the town.  It was now just barely a path following the contours around the side of a mountain and the going became much harder.  It was soft underfoot and overgrown and I frequently stumbled on hidden rocks and roots.  I got "up close and personal" with hundreds of tree ferns in the many ravines the trail crossed, often having to bull-doze my way through the vegetation, thankful that it hadn't been raining.  In many places large trees had fallen across the trail necessitating some careful clambering.  It took the best part of three tiring hours to traverse this section and, although it was exhausting, I did take time to appreciate the lovely country and the efforts of Hume & Hovell's party in finding a route through this country.

Lower down the track passed by the remnants of an old timber mill and many gold mining enterprises, mostly reclaimed by the bush.  It's amazing how quickly nature reasserts itself.  Eventually, the track reached a private pine plantation and then followed forestry roads and firebreaks to grazing country and more old gold mine workings.  By this time my legs and feet were tired and I was very glad to see the Henry Angel Trackhead Campsite come into view.  There were quite a few RVs and other car-based campers staying there.

I passed through the Campsite and set myself up in a hitch-hiking position on the Tooma Road at 4:30pm in the gathering dusk.  After 20 minutes not a single vehicle had passed going my way and I decided to begin walking towards Tumbarumba, 8km away, in the hope of getting a mobile phone signal and possibly calling someone in town (the motel or taxi.....but the town's probably too small).  Anyway, after walking about one kilometre, two cars passed and the second, a young couple in a pickup towing a boat, stopped and picked me up.  They had had an unsuccessful day's fishing on a nearby lake, but said this was unusual.  The guy said that one of his casual jobs was clearing the Hume & Hovell trail of brush and treefalls with a chainsaw and that he would be back up there after the winter.  They dropped me at the motel I had earlier booked in town and I decided, given the relatively late hour, the washing I needed to do, and the longish next section of trail, that I would stay two nights and have tomorrow off.  I showered and walked into town to get some take-out dinner before having a quiet night in the hotel, looking forward to a sleep-in in the morning.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 011 - Ben Smith C/S to Paddy's River Dam C/S

 

Day:011
Date:

Friday, 17 May 2013

Start:

Ben Smith Campsite

Finish:

Paddy's River Dam Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

25.7

Total Kilometres:

229.4

Weather:

Cold and overcast with occasional light rain.

Accommodation:

Camping at Paddy's River Dam Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Soup, Beef Curry and chocolate 

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I slept on the table in the shelter last night which saved putting up the tent and packing it wet in the morning, but the wooden table was hard and I didn't sleep as well, so I think it will be back in the tent tonight.

I got up at 6:30am on a very cold morning and was hiking by 8:30am.  It was very overcast and everything was wet, but it wasn't actually raining.  After a couple of hundred metres of foot trail, I emerged on a forest road that showed how close I had been to civilisation last night.  A kilometre or two away, on the other side of Jounama Pondage, was the pretty alpine village of Talbingo, dotted with autumnal colour.  However, close as it seemed, it was eight kilometres by road to get there, so I wasn't that close as a hiker.

The next 10km was a detour from the official Hume & Hovell route which was closed because of a landslip.  Warwick Hull, the trail coordinator, had told me in Tumut that it was one of the prettiest sections, following the route of a very old tourist road from Talbingo to Buddong Falls and that work was underway to reopen it.  I'll have to come back.  The detour followed a little-used forest road that climbed and followed a forested ridge.  It was quite pretty eucalypt forest and, apart from having to negotiate my way around a number of huge puddles bordered by blackberries, and a very steep and long final climb, it was quite a pleasant walk.  As is my early morning habit I listened to various current affairs programs on the radio as I walked.  The presenter of ABC Radio National's "Life Matters" program between 9am and 10am each morning, is Natasha Mitchell who, as the daughter of friends at the time (since lost touch), was someone we knew and occasionally babysat as a 10yo, 30 years ago.  I haven't seen her since, but she was pretty smart then and has gone onto bigger and better things.

At the end of the detour, I reached the Buddong Falls Picnic Area in light rain and feeling quite cold because of the elevation I had gained in the last 10km.  I found the signage surrounding the detour a little confusing but, with the help of my GPS, worked out the most likely route which was proved correct.  For the next few kilometres, the route followed foot trails and old firetrails that overlooked the continuous rocky cascades of the rushing Buddong Creek in the forested valley below to reach Buddong Hut.  The Hut looked the same vintage as many of the cattleman's huts on the alpine High Plains, but was in poor repair, probably because it was accessible by forest road.  There had been goldmining in the area many years ago and that may have led to the building of the hut.

Despite the cold (now around 1200m altitude) and occasional showers, I found the next 10km of trail some of the most attractive so far.  It was a well-marked foot-trail most of the way crossing a high alpine plateau populated with snow gums and a tussocky undergrowth.  It was easy walking and evidence of brumbies (wild horses) was abundant in large piles along the track.  Probably one of the reasons it was well-worn.  I didn't see any brumbies, but imagined I occasionally heard the sound of hooves or a distant snort.  There were some fresh tracks, so they were definitely around.  I kept moving briskly to generate some warmth as I walked and toyed with the idea of stopping and adding some layers, but survived OK.

Soon after 4pm I emerged on the shore of the very pretty Paddy's River Dam, a beautiful alpine lake, and followed its shoreline around to the Campsite.  I quickly set up camp, had a wash, and cooked some dinner wearing pretty much all of the clothing I'm carrying.  After dinner I updated my diary and prepared for what is going to be a very cold night.  I am booked into a motel in Tumbarumba tomorrow night but have a longish day (28km) before I reach the road down which I'll have to find a ride to town.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 010 - Island Forest Park to Ben Smith C/S

 

Day:010
Date:

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Start:

Island Forest Park

Finish:

Ben Smith Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

21.1

Total Kilometres:

203.7

Weather:

Cold at first.  Mostly cloudy with occasional showers.

Accommodation:

Camping at Ben Smith Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Soup, Chicken Tikka Masala and chocolate 

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

Around midnight I was woken by more rain squalls, but could tell I was starting to feel better.  At 6:30am, during a lull in the showers I began packing up and getting dressed as much as I could inside the small tent.  The tent was quite exposed and I was a bit worried about it's stability, but it survived the night fine, as did some gear I had stowed under a nearby log wrapped in a tarpaulin for the past 36 hours.

The weather was kind while I finished packing and ate breakfast, with just the odd sprinkle of rain, and I was on my way by 8:30am.  I didn't feel 100%, but more just "washed out" than ill.

The early walking continued along a forestry road that was bordered on the left by almost continuous and park-like picnic/camping areas populated with the usual yellow-leaved trees and kangaroos.  To the right was old pastureland dotted with blackberry bushes and further up plantation pine forests or eucalypt forests.  I wondered whether they actually mowed the grass in the picnic/camping areas or whether the kangaroos took care of it.  These areas were vast and there was something surreal about me being the only person there.  I guess in the summer months they are quite popular.

Eventually, the trail climbed away from the Blowering Reservoir along a disused fire trail through eucalypt forest occasionally offering nice views back down the dam and, at one of these, I stopped for some lunch around noon.  Although it was still showering occasionally, it wasn't that cold and I only needed a T-shirt and shorts for the bulk of the day after starting out in several layers including rain protection.  What rain there was in the afternoon, seemed to get evaporated from my T-shirt by body heat from the climb as fast as it got wet.

The firetrail reached a summit about 1:30pm and then my route followed a little-used, rough and sodden foot trail down a small valley switching from side to side of a stream on little wooden bridges.  It was pretty, but it was wet.  I was glad of my good boots and gaiters which kept my feet dry though overhanging branches kept my T-shirt wet.

At 2:30pm, a bit quicker than I had anticipated (which is always nice), I arrived at the Ben Smith Campsite which had a nice shelter and rainwater tank.  I boiled my usual cup of water to chuck in a bucket of cold water and washed and set up camp.  I may sleep on the table tonight in the hope that I can dry out my tent.  Hopefully it will be too cold for mosquitoes.  The temperature has certainly dropped and record lows are forecast for this weekend.

I had a hot chocolate for afternoon tea and then updated my diary before having an early dinner and then plan to listen to the Budget reply speech from the Opposition.  I'm now exactly one day behind my original schedule, but have no real need to make up the time, so will just adjust everything by one day.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 009 - Island Forest Park

 

Day:009
Date:

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Start:

Island Forest Park

Finish:

Island Forest Park

Daily Kilometres:0
Total Kilometres:

182.6

Weather:

Overcast, squally with showers.

Accommodation:

Camping at Island Forest Park

Nutrition:

Zero

Aches:

None

Pictures:

None

GPS Track:

None

Journal:

The day was a total wipe-out.  In retrospect, the unexpected feelings of fatigue I had yesterday were the first signs of some kind of virus.  I woke about 4am to the sounds of torrential rain and to a splitting headache.  At 7am it was still squally outside and I felt even worse, so postponed a decision on the day's activity to 10am, the latest I could probably get up and still reach the next scheduled campsite.

At 10am I still felt terrible and, as showers were passing through frequently, it seemed sensible to stay put rather than pack up camp in the wet and then find out I was too ill to go far and have to set up camp again.  This is the first day I can ever remember getting ill on one of my treks.

So, the whole day was spent sleeping in the hope that I could shake off whatever it was.  I wasn't up to reading or even listening to the radio.  I just wanted to sleep and get rid of the headache and associated nausea.  I don't think it was food poisoning because I didn't have one of the "classic symptoms" but I didn't feel hungry and didn't eat at all for 36 hours.  The whole time was just a blur of tossing and turning and passing rainstorms and squalls.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 008 - Snowy Mountains Hwy to Island Forest Park

 

Day:008
Date:

Tuesday, 14 May 2013

Start:

Snowy Mountains Highway

Finish:

Island Forest Park

Daily Kilometres:

29.2

Total Kilometres:

182.6

Weather:

Foggy and cold at first.  Overcast with showers late in the day.

Accommodation:

Camping on Island Forest Park

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muffine, donut and flavoured milk
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Soup, Honey Soy Chicken and chocolate 

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I got up at 5:30am having gone to bed quite late after catching up on email, etc., and felt tired and maybe not ready for another day of exertion.  Anyway, I packed all my now-clean gear, ate the breakfast I had purchased at Woolworths last night and walked 100 metres to the Tumut Courthouse where I was to meet the school bus at 6:45am.  There was a heavy fog and it was cold.  I walked on the spot to keep warm until the bus eventually arrived around 7am.  I paid my $2 and chatted with the driver as we covered the 10km to my starting point for the day.  It was still very foggy, but the bus driver assured me that it would soon lift, as it did over the next hour as I followed a country road through autumnal foliage and past working farms to reach Blowering Dam.

My route then climbed up through the forest to the right of the dam wall before becoming a very pretty foot-track along the edge of the Dam but high enough to be in the bordering forest.  I gather I am now covering the same ground as the Hume & Hovell Trail Ultra Race and, if it continues like this, I will be tempted to return in October to participate.  For the next hour or so, the trail either bordered the Dam or turned inland to cross old farmland, slowly being reclaimed by the bush after the owners moved out to accommodate the Dam.

For some reason, I was feeling quite tired and plodding a bit, maybe because of insufficient sleep, and spent a lot of time listening to the radio to take my mind off the fatigue.  The scenery, however, was fantastic and this section is one of the highlights of the trail thus far.

I had an early lunch break at Browns Creek Campsite and thereafter the trail followed fire trails, a lot of the time through pine plantations, but also passing by some lovely undeveloped grassy Dam-side picnic/camping areas populated with yellow-leaved trees and kangaroos.  At the top of one climb I checked my phone messages and returned a call from a National Parks ranger to confirm details of my encounter with the fire-lighters on Sunday afternoon.  Apparently the controlled burn wasn't approved and will be followed up.

I was making good time in the afternoon, but the day was passing slowly.  I was hoping to find accommodation at an old Forestry Camp, but had not been successful in contacting them.  I thought about just turning up and, on the assumption it was out-of-season, just finding some where to get water and camp under shelter.  It had started to drizzle occasionally and the forecast was for showers later.

When I reached the general area of the Forestry Camp, it wasn't readily identifiable and what buildings I could see had Private No Entry signs on the approaches.  I decided to carry on in case the camp was further on, but it wasn't.  At this point I saw the first emus of the trip, joining hundreds of kangaroos grazing on the old pasture land.

I carried on another couple of kilometres and arrived at another attractive picnic area but with no benches/tables or shelter or water.  It was approaching 4pm and I decided I was better to camp while I could see and before the rain arrived.  I found a spot where some fallen logs provided a table and set up my tent in intermittent light rain.  I filled my water carriers from the dam and decided to forgo a wash since it had been cool all day and I hadn't really raised a sweat.  I cooked and ate dinner in the cloudy gloom of the early evening, observing the occasional headlights travelling the Snowy Mountains Highway across the other side of the dam.

I retired to my tent soon after 6pm to write up my diary and later will listen to the Federal Budget speech on the radio (I know it's sad, but I'm a helpless news junkie and former economist).  I have my fingers crossed that it will not be raining when I get up, or it will be very difficult to pack without getting everything wet.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 007 - Thomas Boyd T/H to Snowy Mountains Hwy

 

Day:007
Date:

Monday, 13 May 2013

Start:

Thomas Boyd Trackhead

Finish:

Snowy Mountains Highway

Daily Kilometres:

20.2

Total Kilometres:

153.4

Weather:

Rain all day of varying intensity with the wind rising in the afternoon.

Accommodation:

Motel in Tumut.

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Just some snacks during the day.
Dinner:  Pizza and ice-cream. 

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I slept badly initially as I was sleeping on a table in the BBQ shelter and there were some small biting insects.  Eventually, I gave in around midnight and found some insect repellant and rubbed it on my exposed skin.  Thereafter I slept well until woken by a rain shower around 4am and by 6:30am, when I got up, it was raining steadily.  I celebrated my good judgment in choosing to sleep in the shelter.

I breakfasted and packed up and then hid my supply drum, and took a GPS location, in nearby bush.  I will pick it up on my next trip to Melbourne.  The rain was steady, although not heavy, as I set out along the road.  I was making a detour from the official Hume & Hovell route because a footbridge had been washed out further downstream.  The detour didn't involve extra distance, but did require walking along a country road.  There was almost no traffic and the scenery was autumnal with the occasional bright yellow tree and mist hanging on the sides of the surrounding mountains.  Very pleasant.

After an hour I rejoined the official route which then turned down a farm road that followed a rural valley upstream for about 6 kilometres.  There were more autumn colours, a babbling creek and open pastures populated with cattle, sheep and kangaroos.  The grade was easy, I had the place to myself and it was easy to ignore the continual rain.  I passed the remnants of an old logging mill and other rusting machinery and soon after reached the end of the valley and began zig-zagging up the side of a steep mountain through dense brush which was wet and overhanging the trail.  Before long I was sodden and getting a bit cold.  Higher up, the trail emerged from the brush and followed the mountain contours, weaving between huge mossy boulders in a majestic eucalypt forest.  Still raining and I sat on a rock, huddled from the weather, and had my first and only break and snack for the day, having walked for three hours.

After the break the trail left the forest and began crossing some precipitous open pasture land.  I had to follow either fence lines or the ubiquitous white Hume & Hovell market posts that were visible at long distances.  This was the pattern for the rest of the afternoon.  The grass in the pastureland was short so the walking was easy apart from the steep ups and downs.  The wind was becoming noticeable on the ridges and I was bordering on cold but didn't want to stop and get any more gear out as there was no shelter and things would get wet.

Around 2pm I descended to the Snowy Mountains Highway.  The Hume & Hovell Track continued on the other side of the Highway, after following it for a kilometre, but I had decided to go into the town of Tumut, 10km further down the highway, and get a motel room for the night.  I had washing to do and batteries to recharge and the thought of a hot shower was icing on the cake.  I thought about calling a taxi, but didn't want to risk getting my phone wet and the rain was now pouring down.  I knew that there would be a school bus coming along later in the afternoon, but there was nowhere dry to wait so I decided I might as well walk towards town.  I would be there in two hours and it would keep me warm.  I didn't hitch-hike, but thought there was a good chance someone would pick me up and, sure enough, the third car along stopped and offered me a ride in their luxury SUV.  Very apologetically, I dumped my saturated pack on the back seat and sat my sodden butt on the front seat for the short ride into town from the friendly local.

He dropped me in the centre of Tumut and, after some quick consideration, I decided the motel across the road would do me fine and went to Reception.  As soon as they saw I was a hiker, they said Warwick Hull, the Hume & Hovell Trail Coordinator had just been in looking for me!  They helpfully organised a washing machine and dryer for my gear.  I showered, put on a load of laundry, and called Warwick.  He was still in town (he works in Wagga Wagga) and we arranged to have a cup of coffee nearby.  His colleague Peter was with him and we had a really nice chat about the Hume & Hovell Track, other hikes and running for an hour or so.  Warwick had actually intended to give me a lift from the trailhead into town, but I wasn't answering my phone.

So, another day has ended on a good note, due largely to the help and kindness of strangers.  I called the school bus company and they will pick me up at 6:45am in the morning from near the motel and return me to the trail for $2!

I bought pizza for dinner from across the road and a few batteries I needed from the adjacent supermarket and then updated my diary after dinner and packed ready for an early departure tomorrow.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 006 - Bossawa C/S to Thomas Boyd T/H

 

Day:006
Date:

Sunday, 12 May 2013

Start:

Bossawa Campsite

Finish:

Thomas Boyd Trackhead

Daily Kilometres:

25.4

Total Kilometres:

133.2

Weather:

Cold at first, then mild and sunny before becoming partly cloudy in the afternoon

Accommodation:

Camping at Thomas Boyd Trackhead 

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Corn chips, Lamb Fettuccine, Fruit Salad & Rice Cream, and chocolate

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I wanted to stay in bed, where it was warm and cosy, but forced myself to get up at 6:30am.  It was cold and ice had formed on the tent and parts of my sleeping bag.  I quickly took down the tent and strung it and the sleeping bag over a washing line I had set up in the hope that whatever breeze there was and the first rays of sunshine, when they appeared, would hasten the drying process.

At 8:30am after breakfast and packing most of my gear I gave up on the sun and set out still wearing some warm gear.  Despite the cold it was another beautiful morning and the early trail was level and followed along the edges of the Micalong Swamp, the largest montane swamp in mainland Australia (according to the guidebook).  The Micalong Creek that I had been hiking up yesterday was fed by the swamp which was really on the top of a plateau.  It was very peaceful and there were few signs of life looking across the vast swamp.  The final section was crossed via a long boardwalk before my route began following an old disused fire trail gradually climbing through pretty eucalypt forest and then along a broad ridge leading westwards.  I had some feeble mobile phone coverage for the first time in two days and, just as the trail began to descend from the ridge, I decided to use the phone reception to post my diary from two days ago.  The link was flakey and it took longer than I had hoped and I decided to just update one day before continuing along the beautiful single-track down off the mountain.

As the trail dropped, I could occasionally smell some smoke, though couldn't see any, and decided someone was burning off somewhere to the west.  Lower down the mountain, the trail began to emerge from the wilderness and I encountered a couple of grassy clearings and deciduous trees, tell-tale signs of earlier settlement.  There were also more blackberries bordering the track, a common occurrence the last few days, and every now and then my forearms would catch a branch and bleed.  It's easy to see that parts of this trail could quickly get overgrown if left untended for a season or two.

I reached a large grassy area with the remains of some corrugated iron buildings around mid-afternoon and stopped for a break and made an entry in the log book located there.  Soon after I began walking again, along what was now an old disused farm trail, I heard a vehicle approaching and round a corner ahead of me came a quad bike piloted by a guy who looked about seventeen with a younger guy on the back (neither wearing helmets) using a sort of kerosene lighter to set fire to the undergrowth as they went.  They stopped and I queried what they were doing and they said it was a National Parks controlled burn (to remove flammable undergrowth in the off-season).  The driver said he thought I would be OK to continue on as the bush was a bit damp and the fire wasn't burning fiercely.  Even standing talking to them I could feel the heat from the flames and the hairs on my arms singeing.  I continued on with the fire bordering the track to my left and then hurried through a gap to where the fire line was now burning on my right and blowing towards me.  I hurried on and, in another few hundred metres, the fire was well behind and all was OK, or so I thought.  A kilometre further on the trail began descending down a steep slope and I could see smoke through the trees ahead.  Soon I encountered fire on both sides of the trail and began to get a little concerned.  The smoke made it difficult to see and the roar and crackling of the fire was all around and unnerving.  I could tell the next hundred metres was either on fire or smouldering, but not what was further along.  I retreated 50 metres, took off my pack, and then ran down the track past the flames and into the smoke to see how far I had to travel to cross the burning area (prepared to reverse direction quickly if it looked bad).  It was about 100 metres to clear trail, so I ran back, retrieved my pack and then ran through.  Unfortunately, I found the track was now zig-zagging down the steep burning slope and I had to keep crossing back through smouldering trail (is it burning the soles off my new boots?) past some trees, logs and bushes still burning fiercely. One patch of blackberries was roaring like an inferno and generating a lot of heat.  Finally I descended below the fire, wondering about the wisdom of organising a controlled burn across a well-known trail on a sunny Sunday afternoon with no apparent warning signs.

The last part of the afternoon involved climbing over the shoulder of a sizable mountain and then descending to the campsite at Thomas Boyd Trackhead.  As I approached the Trackhead, I used my GPS to locate the drum of food I had secreted there two weeks ago and lugged it into the campsite.  Almost at the same time, John, a Ranger, arrived by car and introduced himself.  He works with Warwick Hull, who manages the Hume & Hovell Track and Warwick had asked him to check to see if I had arrived.  We had a pleasant chat before John and some picnickers left and I had the very well appointed campsite to myself.  There is hot water and I had a lovely wash, and there are lights in the shelters.  I've decided to sleep in the shelter tonight as there's the possibility of rain and it makes departing faster in the morning.  I typed up my diary while enjoying some corn chips and Diet Coke from my food drum.  I'm thinking about hitch-hiking the 10km into Tumut tomorrow afternoon when my trail crosses the Snowy Mountains Hwy and staying there tomorrow night.  It will give me a chance to recharge my phone and laptop and buy some extra gas and batteries I think I may need.