A 440km hike along the Hume and Hovell Walking Track from Yass to Albury which follows the route of explorers Hamilton Hume and William Hovell on their expedition to Port Phillip in 1824.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 019 - The Great Aussie H/P to Albury

 

Day:019
Date:

Saturday, 25 May 2013 

Start:

The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Finish:

Hovell Tree, Albury

Daily Kilometres:

48.6

Total Kilometres:

437.6

Weather:

Very cold and occasionally foggy at first then mild and mostly sunny.

Accommodation:

Motel in Albury

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Pizza and ice-cream 

Aches:

Very tired feet

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

It was very cold in my cabin during the night and I woke a few times wishing I was tucked up in my tent in my sleeping bag.  Determined to try and reach the trail finish at the Hovell Tree, 49km away in Albury, in daylight, I left the cabin in the pre-dawn at 6:30am and set out at a good pace with light provided by a fabulous moonset across Lake Hume.

The early trail passed through the Ten Chain Stock Reserve, presumably part of the national system of stock routes in rural Australia.  As usual, the early walking hours seemed the best.  There was fog drifting in some of the nearby valleys and frost in some of the pastures, as the sun rose in clear skies and cold temperatures.  On the radio, they said the temperature in Albury was 0°C and it felt like it.  But as the morning wore on it became warmer and I gradually removed layers to end up in the usual shorts and T-shirt.

After the Stock Route, the balance of the morning was spent roadwalking, some of it in thick fog, through the rural outskirts of Albury.  It was easy to make good time on the roads and I passed lots of interesting farmlets and some nice views, but it is hard on the feet.  By the time I reached the suburb of Thurgoona in early afternoon, where the trail began following footpaths and bike trails, I was just plodding along, hanging out for the next break.  The trail-marking was hard to follow in places, and I began to rely on the maps and GPS to confirm I was going the right way.  Suburban walking doesn't have a lot to recommend it, and I was looking forward to the climb of East Hill in Albury for a change of terrain and pace.  All day, I had tried to cover at least 10km between breaks and to keep the breaks short and was happy to see I was on schedule as I approached East Hill and the final 10km.

The climb up the Hill on the foot trail was very welcome to my road-pummelled feet, and at the top I was rewarded by some excellent views into Victoria, along the Murray River, and way back from where I had hiked.  After a walk along the ridge of East Hill I made a painful descent into central Albury and the final sole-destroying and soul-destroying couple of kilometres across the town.  The sun was setting and it was a race to get to the Hovell Tree in daylight.  I made it at 5:25pm in just enough light to take a few photographs, and then sat on a park bench for 15 minutes or so to recover and ponder on my journey, as night fell and the air cooled.

The trail had matched my expectations with its great mix of rural and mountain Australian scenery, but I was surprised not to have met a single hiker the whole way, travelling in either direction.  Maybe it's the distance from the Australian population centres, but perhaps it just isn't well enough known.  It's a pity, because it's a great slice of Australia.  The camping facilities and guidebooks were excellent and I look forward to running some of the trail in the Hume & Hovell 100km in October.  I will be back.

I finally roused myself from the park bench and hobbled the half kilometre to my motel.  After a shower, I wandered downtown and bought some dinner to bring back to the motel, and am looking forward to stretching out in my window seat on the train tomorrow and looking at the mountains I have just traversed in the distance to the east.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 018 - Samuel Bollard C/S to The Great Aussie H/P

 

Day:018
Date:

Friday, 24 May 2013

Start:

Samuel Bollard Campsite

Finish:

The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Daily Kilometres:

26.4

Total Kilometres:

389.0

Weather:

Cold early, then sunny and mild.

Accommodation:

Cabin at The Great Aussie Holiday Park

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, bacon and cheese rissoles and baked beans, and fruit and jelly 

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I got up just before 6:30am to clear skies and an hour later the sun rose to warm up slightly what was another very cold morning.  I was on my way by 8:30am, still wearing a jacket for warmth, along some more beautiful sun-dappled track through a very dry eucalypt forest.  No sign of the camp neighbours before I left.

The trail notes said this this section was "hard" and it was definitely less-travelled than some other parts but, apart from a few short sharp climbs, the going wasn't too bad for the first few hours.  I stopped at one of the rare log books on the trail for my first break and found an entry from friends Darrel, Andrew and Terry, who had run the trail in just five days, three years ago.  I photographed their entry and sent it by SMS to Darrel, knowing that it would evoke some memories for him.

After the break, the trail left this section of Woomargama National Park and entered some private pine plantation and grazing land.  As I walked, I tuned into an interview on the ABC with Cheryl Strayed (in Sydney for the Writers Festival) about her book "Wild" describing her hike along part of the Pacific Crest Trail in the US and how it had got her life back on track after the death of her mother.  I had read and enjoyed the book, which I think did a very good job of describing the miseries and joys of solo long-distance hiking.  Recommended.  It was also relevant because the PCT has been on my list for some time and there's a good chance I will hike the southern half (Californian section) next year.

Anyway, while I listened to the radio, my trail gradually emerged from forest onto very hilly grazing land, giving sweeping views, and it became a bit harder to find the trail markers.  At one point I thought I was on track, but wasn't, and had to retrace my steps and then use the map, topography and GPS to work out where the trail should be going.  After travelling cross-country for about a kilometre, I left a small pocket of forest to spy, in the distance, a trail marker and after that I didn't have any more problems.  That is, apart from the up and down route following fence lines across hilly open grazing lands, negotiating many stiles, and all beneath a strong sun.  It was quite tiring and I began to regret my decision not to carry any water, which has been fine for most days of the hike, but not today.

Finally, after a last couple of stiles the trail reached the Bowna-Wymah Road and I sat on the bottom step of the last stile and had a late lunch at 1:45pm.  It was positively warm in the sun and the flies were plentiful, encouraging me not to wait for too long before beginning the last leg of the day, 7.5km along the road to The Great Aussie Holiday Park where I had booked a cabin for the night.  Road-walking is hard on the feet, but a lot faster and the backroad pretty rural scenery helped the time quickly pass.  I reached the very picturesque and manicured Holiday Park, on the shore of Lake Hume, at 3:30pm and checked in and bought an ice-cream and a very welcome large Diet Coke.  My cabin is large and clean and after a shower and drying my tent outside in the late afternoon sun, I purchased a frozen dinner back at the camp store, and uploaded my diary entries for the last three days before cooking dinner.  The battery on my laptop had lasted well, but the battery on the iPhone I use to upload to the internet on the trail had pretty much run out.

I was originally planning to take two days to hike from here to the finishing point in Albury, but the thought of camping in a vehicle-accessible campsite on the outskirts of a small city on a Saturday night is not particularly inviting.  Therefore I have decided to pack two days into one and make an early start tomorrow for the final 49km.  I've booked a motel room in Albury near the finish point for tomorrow night and a train seat from Albury to Sydney on Sunday morning, so I'm fully committed to a big day.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 017 - Tin Mines C/S to Samuel Bollard C/S

 

Day:017
Date:

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Start:

Tin Mines Campsite

Finish:

Samuel Bollard Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

20.6

Total Kilometres:

362.6

Weather:

Cold at first, but mild and mostly sunny all day.

Accommodation:

Camping at Samuel Bollard Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Beef Teriyaki and chocolate 

Aches:

None.

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

There were only a few light showers overnight and I got up in the 6:30am pre-dawn gloom to mostly clear skies.  Overhead I could hear the whisper of a high-flying jet, most likely on the Sydney-Melbourne route and imagined the bleary-eyed occupants, having woken to a 4:00am alarm for a 4:30am car to the airport and a 6am flight.  A few of the occupants might be looking out of the window at the forests and mountains below, as I have done on many commuter flights in various parts of the world, wondering who's down there and what are they doing?  I know where I would rather be.

Knowing that I had another easy day, I took my time breakfasting and packing up, and started walking around 9am.  The guide-book warned that the next 8km was mostly uphill, but it was a very gradual climb, not onerous at all, along the beautiful sun-dappled track through the eucalypt forest.  After an hour, the sun was warm enough to strip down to my T-shirt and I felt fortunate to have missed most of the rain that had passed through NSW and was now apparently falling on Sydney and the Central Coast.

Around 11am I reached Norths Lookout, a broad rocky outcrop that gave fantastic views in a 180° arc from the NE through NW to SW and I stopped for a short while to enjoy the scene.  I then continued on for another half hour to the edge of the Woomargama National Park and had lunch in the sun in a broad clearing.  Very pleasant.  From there, the trail passed through a pine plantation and, at one point, I briefly passed through a "No Entry" area where I could hear ongoing logging operations, but had no problems.

After the pine plantation the trail again entered eucalypt forest.  I was making good time and it looked like another very early finish.  With just a few minutes to go, I reached a track junction where I needed to turn off to get to the campsite when I heard a vehicle approaching.  It stopped and turned out to be Warwick, the trail coordinator, who had some business in the area and guessed I might be nearby.  It was nice to see him again and we chatted for quite a long time about the Track and the ultra-distance trail race which is now held on a section of it each year.  After saying our goodbyes I hiked the last half kilometre to the campsite which was on a lightly forested knoll that would get the sun late and early.

As I set up camp, an elderly couple (well, older than me!) driving a 4WD with a camper trailer arrived.  I was glad I hadn't arrived any later because I suspect they would have set up near the shelter which I had claimed as my own.  Instead, they set up 50 metres away and were quite sociable, and we chatted for a while about the Hume & Hovell expedition.

After setting up camp and washing, I updated my diary before another early dinner and night.  I am booked into a cabin tomorrow night but, despite being another shortish day, there will be some tough trail to negotiate en route.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 016 - Lankeys Creek C?S to Tin Mines C/S

 

Day:016
Date:

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Start:

Lankeys Creek Campsite

Finish:

Tin Mines Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

21.3

Total Kilometres:

342.0 

Weather:

Cold and foggy early, and cool and overcast later.

Accommodation:

Camping at Tin Mines Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Chicken Tikka Masala and chocolate

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I was expecting it to start raining overnight, but there were only a couple of brief showers.  However, there was a fog in the valley where I was camped and everything was damp.....and it was also cold.  I got up at 6:30am and was hiking by soon after 8:30am, anticipating an easier and shorter day's hiking.

An early bonus was finding that the official route of the Hume & Hovell Track had changed, presumably because an owner had granted permission, to take a track up through a private pine plantation which cut out a couple of kilometres, including a road section.  It was cold but the steady climb through the plantation for 30 minutes soon warmed me up.  At the top of the climb, the trail joined the old H&H route and followed a broad forested ridge to the west.  After a short while it entered the Woomargama National Park to follow the Tin Mines Track and the forest changed to a grassy eucalypt forest that was very easy on the eye in the overcast conditions.  All muted shades of green, grey and brown with the occasional white snow gum standing out.  It was very quiet except for the occasional wallaby or disturbed flock black or white cockatoos.

Further on as the track climbed higher to round a couple of knolls, there were partially obscured views across the rural land to the west and mountains to the east.  I was making good time and, after a short lunch stop, completed the last section of the day's hike with a gradual descent to the Tin Mines Flats and my campsite which I reached at 2:15pm.  The next campsite is another 20km further on, so continuing was not really an option.  Firstly, water is scarce in Woomargama NP on my route and, secondly, the official campsites have some shelter and rain is still forecast.

I set up camp, washed and dried out the gear that was still damp and settled into a relaxing afternoon including a walk around the Flats and some reading.  I had an early dinner and went to bed early to have a read.  Rain is still expected tonight, but I'm starting to think that maybe it has somehow missed me.  However, there is a "sheep weather alert" out for this region so maybe there is weather misery to come.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 015 - Mundaroo C/S to Lankeys Creek C/S

 

Day:015
Date:

Tuesday, 21 May 2013

Start:

Munderoo Campsite

Finish:

Lankeys Creek Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

26.7

Total Kilometres:

320.7

Weather:

Cool in the morning, mostly sunny and mild later

Accommodation:

Camping at Lankeys Creek Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Muesli
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Soup, Beef Curry and chocolate

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I had planned to sleep in until 7am, but was awake at 6:30am and got up.  The campsite was in a shallow valley where there had been rain overnight and a heavy dew and it didn't look like the sun was going to reach it for a while, so I sort of dawdled over breakfast and packing up but finally gave up on the sun and packed and left with a wet tent at 9am.

My pack now had five days of food in it so was a lot heavier than yesterday, but it was a beautiful morning for walking along the foot trail through the sun-dappled forest in the cool morning air.  The morning's walking continued like this, passing through eucalypt and pine forest on a mix of forest roads and foot-trails following shallow valleys and crossing broad clearings.  It was just magic and I forgot about the increased pack weight.  Towards noon the trail climbed higher and higher to reach a broad mountain shoulder where I had mobile phone coverage so I took an hour off in the sun to post my diary to the web and dry out my tent and parts of my sleeping bag after last night's rain and dew.  It would have been easy to stay longer, but I still had a fair way to go.

The next few hours were also exceptional walking.  For a while the track followed a narrow forested ridge with occasional spectacular views to the south, east and north.  Then there was a gradual but exhilarating descent across the face of a steep open grassy mountain where I had continuous views in multiple directions.  Far below was a road along which passed a number of large logging trucks going to and from the forests somewhere and straining loudly up the hills.  Finally the track descended to the valley floor and crossed private farmland to a creek where I looked in vain for the usual snazzy Hume & Hovell Track suspension bridge and finally manouvred my way across a series of rocks balancing with the aid of my trekking poles and thankful for my high profile Goretex boots.

There followed more pastureland walking which was occasionally difficult to navigate because the cows seemed to have enjoyed knocking over the little white posts (possibly good for scratching).  Yesterday's long walk together with today's heavy pack began catching up with me around 3pm and I was looking forward to reaching the campsite.  This fatigue probably coloured my view of some of the last kilometres which were pretty much cross-country following Lankeys Creek upstream through cow pasture.  The stream meandered around, it was sometimes difficult to negotiate steep banks, and the setting sun was directly into my eyes making it diffcult to see where I was going.  I made slow progress and it was 4:50pm before the trail crossed the creek and joined the road which was on the other side.  After another 3km I reached the Lankeys Creek Campsite, partly damaged by a recent flood, in rapidly diminishing light.

Adjacent to the Campsite is a private property with a number of old rail carriages being used as accommodation.  This would be the Lankeys Creek Bunkhouse which, by reputation, has been a welcome stopover for previous H&H hikers.  However, I hadn't called ahead and, now that it was dark, I couldn't be bothered making contact and investigating the possibility of unbooked accommodation.  At the end of another long day, I just wanted to set up camp, eat and go to bed, so that's what I did on what was becoming a very cold night with a sharp breeze.  After doing my diary, I headed gratefully for bed at 8:30pm.  Quite a lot of rain is forecast for the next two days.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 014 - Henry Angel T/H to Mundaroo C/S

 

Day:014
Date:

Monday, 20 May 2013

Start:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Finish:

Munderoo Campsite

Daily Kilometres:

35.6 (plus 9 from Tumbarumba to Henry Angel Trackhead)

Total Kilometres:

294.0

Weather:

Cool and mostly overcast with occasional light showers all day

Accommodation:

Camping at Munderoo Campsite

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Cereal, toast and muffin
Lunch:  Muesli bars and gorp
Dinner:  Corn chips, soup, Beef Teriyaki, fruit and rice-cream 

Aches:

 None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:Here
Journal:

I peered out the motel window when I woke to see it raining lightly.  Curses.  However, by the time I left at 7:15am it had stopped but was still threatening.  I started walking out of town along the Tooma Road, optimistic that some early morning traveller would pick me up.  An hour later, five kilometres out of town and still on foot, I gave up and crossed to walk against the traffic and resigned myself to a long day on foot.  I wanted to reach Munderoo Campsite where I had secreted a food drum with enough supplies to see me through to Albury and the end of the trip.  It was already going to be a long day, without the unplanned nine kilometre warm-up.  I'll admit I could have tried to pressure someone, such as the motel owner, to give me a lift, but I prefer to be independent.....and suffer the consequences.

I finally reached the Hume & Hovell Track at Henry Angel Trackhead, the point where I had left the trail on Saturday, at 9am and stopped for a 10 minute break before "starting" my day's hiking.  It was raining very lightly, but not really enough to get me wet.  The trail picked up where it had left off, following Burra Creek downstream through open pasture and various goldmining sites dating back to 1876.  The miners had done quite a lot of work to drain what was a swamp and increase the flow rate of Burra Creek for sluicing by straightening it through blasting channels and tunnels through rock.  Very impressive work and still lots of evidence by the trail.

After an hour, I dropped my pack at a trail intersection and quickly climbed up a side trail to Big Hill Lookout on the side of the hill from which Hume & Hovell had first seen the Australian Alps.  Sadly for me, the day wasn't so clear with lots of low-hanging cloud obscuring the distant mountains, but the nearer views were clear and spectacular.  It was worth the detour.  I walked back to my pack and then the trail left the farmland behind and descended through forest to a shaky suspension bridge across Tumbarumba Creek.  Then began a long and steady climb into Bogandyera Nature Reserve that certainly slowed my pace, but wasn't too tough.  Finally the trail reached and followed a ridge which gave glimpses through the trees into the Tumbarumba valley below.

It was pleasant forest walking for an hour or so before a steady descent through the forest and into the next rural valley and Mannus Lake.  The latter seemed to be a bit of a misnomer as it wasn't much more than a large stream, but I could see the area which would be covered by water in better seasons.  The trail followed Mannus Creek through pretty pasture land offering some nice rural views.  However, the peaceful scene was somewhat disturbed by irregular air-gun shots from a distant orchard, presumably designed to scare off predatory birds.  The trail then followed a road bordering a pine plantation as it headed north and my feet began reminding me that they had gone far enough for one day.  I had done about 31km, with about 14km to go, and it was past the time I would normally have stopped on this trip.  I tried to remember other days on other hikes when I had ended up doing big kilometres and that helped a bit as I tried to mentally string together milestones on those hikes and other details.  Some of those days were definitely tougher than today.

I had a break at Mannus Campsite adjacent to a road that would have taken me back to Tumbarumba, then set off for my last 12km.  After crossing the road the trail went through a pine plantation and then back to pasture land where huge mobs of kangaroos were grazing.  Then began a long steady climb into Mundaroo State Forest, mainly pine plantation, as the sun began setting to my right.  For a while the sky was clear and brilliant stars and a half moon emerged to offer some light.  I had my last break at 5:30pm and donned my headlamp as it soon became too dark to tread carefully, though there was enough light to see the forest and farmland I passed.  The last kilometre or two was steeply downhill on a slippery fire-trail and was quite slow.  I was well and truly ready for Munderoo Campsite when I arrived at 7pm and 15 minutes later I had retrieved my food drum and began getting organised to camp and reorganise supplies for the next six days.  My feet were very tired and I felt like I could have crawled straight into my sleeping bag once the tent was set up, but knew I hadn't eaten or drunk much during the day and forced myself to eat a meal and update my diary before heading for bed about 10:45pm.

Hume & Hovell Walking Track - Day 013 - Henry Angel T/H

 

Day:013
Date:

Sunday, 19 May 2013

Start:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Finish:

Henry Angel Trackhead (Tumbarumba)

Daily Kilometres:0
Total Kilometres:

258.4

Weather:

Cold and partly sunny in the morning and cool and overcast in the afternoon.

Accommodation:

Motel in Tumbarumba

Nutrition:

Breakfast:  Cereal and toast
Lunch:  Roast of the Day (Pork) and vanilla slice
Dinner:  Spring rolls, Chinese Hot Pot and apple slice.

Aches:

None

Pictures:Here
GPS Track:

na

Journal:

I spent a lazy day in Tumbarumba, sleeping in, watching the Sunday morning news programs, catching up on email, and washing and repacking.

It will be a long day's hiking tomorrow so I'm hoping to be on the trail early, but haven't managed to contact the local school bus service to line up a lift.  I think I'll just go and stand on the road out of town around 7am and hope someone picks me up.